Which Tesla is it? That is where the number starts.
A Tesla owner usually knows the car better than the person buying it, and still has no way of telling which parts of it a buyer is paying for.
So we work out which one is in the driveway first, and then we read the battery, which is the same job on every one of them.
- Australia wide
- Finance settled directly
4.9/5 from 500+ sellers across The Car Buyers group
Pick the car
Two of them have a page of their own
- Sell your Tesla Model 3
- If you have already put the registration into a valuation site and did not believe the answer, that page is about what a second number is built from.
- Sell your Tesla Model Y
- The one that replaced a family wagon or an SUV. That page is about the back of the car, where the wear and the accessories both live.
The whole range
Every Tesla sold here is a car we buy
All of it is battery electric, which is why the state of health reading is the one thing every Tesla valuation on this site has in common.
The Model S, the Model X and the Cybertruck are cars we buy and cars we would far rather hear about from you than infer off a form. Choose one of them in the form at the top of this page, tell us what has been done to it, and it reaches the same desk as anything else here with an inspector who still comes to your home or your work. On those three in particular, let a person write the history down rather than trying to fit it into a box.
Sorting it out first
What changes between them, and what does not
The badge on the boot is the same and the sale is not, which is why the first useful question is which one, rather than how much.
Ask a Tesla owner about their car and the answer usually comes back detailed and confident, and usually about the parts nobody is buying. The software, the trips, how it behaves in traffic. That is not a criticism of the owner, it is a comment on how a car actually gets valued, which is out of duller material: which one it is, what has been fitted to it, what has been carried in it, what is coming with it, and what the battery reads on the day.
The differences between them are really differences in the life each car has had. One that went to work and back is a different sale from one that has hauled a family and their luggage around, before anybody has opened a door. That is why they get separate pages rather than one page about the badge, and why the questions on those pages are genuinely different questions.
What does not change is the instrument. State of health is how much of the original battery capacity is left, it is read at your place on the day rather than estimated from a desk, and on an electric car it moves the value more than kilometres do. That holds for every one of them, so whichever Tesla you have, the part most buyers are guessing at is the part we measure.
At make level
Two questions that apply to all of them
Which Teslas do you actually buy?
All of them. Every Tesla in the list on this page is battery electric, so every one of them is a car we read the state of health on and a car we will make an offer on. Pick yours in the form and the person who calls you back is the person who buys them.
I am not certain which version of it I have. Does that hold anything up?
No. Give us the registration and roughly what you think it is, and we confirm the rest ourselves before we ring you. Knowing exactly how the car was built is our job rather than yours, and getting it wrong on a form does not change what the car is worth.
Tell us which Tesla it is and the rest is ours to work out.
No obligation. Send the car details through and we call you back with a real price range.